女生穿的骑马装在英文里有个特别的词:riding habit,字面意思是“骑马的嗜好”,实际指的是下面这种服装。
Elisabeth of Bavaria, Empress of Austria, in a riding habit, 1884
奥地利公主,巴伐利亚的伊丽莎白身着骑马装,1884年
从17世纪中期开始,正式的骑马套装通常包括有:
一件合身剪裁的外套上装加长裙;
一件修身剪裁的衬衫;
一顶帽子,通常是当时的男士正式礼帽;(从维多利亚时期开始,高帽子加面纱也开始流行。)
低跟靴子,手套,经常以领带或者束胸片完成整套服装。
一般来说,整个骑马套装都习惯使用男性服饰的细节,无论是大翻领袖口,黄金饰边还是纽扣。服装的颜色往往比日常服装颜色更深,更阳刚。较早的样式可以类似于男孩穿的衣服。
c.1680
c.1700
Riding habit, 1801
When high waists were the fashion, from roughly 1790 to 1820, the habit could be a coat dress called a riding coat (borrowed in French as redingote) or a petticoat with a short jacket (often longer in back than in front).
大约在1790年到1820年间,高腰时尚风行,一种骑马装外套叫做riding coat,或者一种前短后长的紧身外套。
British riding habit: 1750-59
Joseph Wright 1763 Mrs Wilmot in riding dress
Riding Habit, 1770-1775. England.
Lady Worsley - 1776
1791 Journal des Luxus Riding Habit from fashion plate
Portrait of a Lady wearing a riding habit by an artist of the French School, c. early 18th c.
Henrietta Cavendish, Lady Huntington by Sir Godfrey Kneller, 1715
In France in the 17th century, women who rode wore an outfit called a devantiere. The skirt of the devantiere was split up the back to enable astride riding.By the early 19th century, in addition to describing the whole costume, a devantiere could describe any part of the riding habit, be it the skirt,the apron,or the riding coat.
在法国的17世纪,妇女们穿着的服装叫做devantiere,这种裙子在背后部分是分开的,以便于骑行。在19世纪早期,这个词已经被用于各种骑行服装,如裙子,衬裙或者外套。
Riding habit 1825, Rijksmuseum Amsterdam
Queen Louise of Prussia riding habit.
Riding habit ca. 1837-40
1870’s riding habit
Riding Habit Date: ca. 1875 Culture: American
Emily Post写道:无论时尚如何,骑马装就像制服一样,必须按照规定制作和穿戴。正确的骑行服装不是时尚而是形式,无论是长裙还是短裙,都是平淡无奇的,腰部像马蜂般的方形结构,这些已经持续了几十年,并会持续更久。
Two-Piece Navy, Wool Riding Habit, 1870s
Woman's riding jacket of flannel trimmed with mohair and lined with sateen, designed and made by John Redfern & Sons, England, 1885-1886.
Riding habit with pants, ca. 1885.
Riding habit 1887.
A ladys riding habit, English, circa 1890
1740s-50s powder blue riding habit based on Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1.
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