【1990年的红酒】1990名酒系列：玫瑰山酒庄葡萄酒

Montrose 1990: The facts

bottles produced n/a

composition 64% cabernet sauvignon、32% merlot和4% cabernet franc

Yield 38hl/ha

Alcohol 13%

发放价格n/a

价格今日485at fine rare

玫瑰山1990

数据

病量：未知

成分：赤霞珠64%，梅洛32%，白酒4%

产量：38hl/ha

酒精度数：13%

发行价格：未知

当前价格：485英镑

A legend because .

montrose was long renowned for its impressive but austere and tannic Wines that needed years of cellaring . then in 1989 and 1990 it produced a pair wineed

connoisseurs still discuss the relative merits of the two vintages，though the consensus is that the 1990 is，marginally，the two vintages

缘分.

玫瑰山庄以令人印象深刻的质朴、丹宁酸葡萄酒久负盛名，该酒需要多年的储藏。

在1989年和1990年，酒庄推出葡萄酒双雄，确立了它在圣埃斯泰夫产区最佳葡萄酒庄的地位，它最接近的竞争对手是爱士图尔酒庄。

尽管已经形成1990年份是两者中较好的共识，鉴赏家仍然在争论这两个年份的相对优点。

Looking back

Jean-Louis Charmolüe, whose ancestors had bought the estate in 1896, was the owner in 1990, and although he always maintained the very traditional style of Montrose, he was aware that wines of such severity were becoming less acceptable to a new generation of Bordeaux drinkers. He planted more Merlot, reducing the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon.

回顾

让·路易·夏木乐的祖先于1896年买下这个酒庄，1990年，他成了酒庄所有者，虽然他一直保持着玫瑰山庄传统的酿酒风格，但是他意识到这样粗犷的葡萄酒年轻一代的波尔多饮酒者接受度越来越低。 他种植了更多梅洛，减少了赤霞珠的比例。

The vintage

The winter was mild and, after rain in April, May was very hot and dry. Flowering began well but was interrupted by poor weather that affected the set of the Cabernets. Extreme heat returned in July, leading to blocked ripening, August too was hot and dry, but there was some rain at the end of the month that relieved the parched vines and allowed the bunches to ripen fully. The harvest began in mid- September and continued until 3 October, giving ripe Merlots and concentrated Cabernets.

年份

冬天温和，经过四月份的降雨，五月非常炎热干燥。 花期开端良好，但恶劣的天气影响了一批赤霞珠。 7月份又回到极端炎热天气，妨碍了葡萄成熟，8月也是炎热干燥的，但是月底下了点雨，使得旱情缓解，促使葡萄完全成熟。 收获从9月中旬开始，一直持续到10月3日，采获了成熟的梅洛和浓缩的赤霞珠。

The terroir

With its deep gravel soils, Montrose differs little in its terroir from Château Latour, its riverside counterpart in Pauillac. The vineyards, about 68ha in 1990, are in a single block about 800m from the Gironde, and their average age was about 40 years. But the gravel is no more than 2m deep – ample for excellent drainage, but no match for the profundity of Latour’s soils. Beneath the gravel is a layer of limestone and clay. Like other top châteaux in St-Estèphe, Montrose also has parcels with a high clay content, which may explain the hefty tannins of the wine, and also why more Merlot, always at home on clay, was planted in the 1980s. Charmolüe told me early in 1990 that he planned to bunch-thin the Merlot that year to ensure it would not weaken the wine’s structure.

风土

玫瑰山庄的深砾石土壤与其波雅克村（Pauillac）的河畔邻居拉图尔庄园（ChâteauLatour）的风土差别不大。 1990年，酒庄68公顷的葡萄园在吉伦特省约800米海拔的的一个单独区块，葡萄藤平均树龄约为40年。 碎石的深度不超过2米，排水功能足够好，但比不上拉图庄的土壤深度。 砾石下面是一层石灰石和粘土。 像圣埃斯泰夫的其他顶级酒庄一样，玫瑰山庄也拥有高粘土含量的葡萄园，这可以解释葡萄酒中的强壮单宁，以及为什么在20世纪80年代种植了更多的梅洛。 夏木乐早在1990年就告诉我说，他计划在当年削减梅洛，以确保它不会削弱葡萄酒的结构。

The wine

The grapes were fermented in wooden vats with frequent pumpovers, and the malolactic fermentation also took place in those vats. The wine was aged for 18 months in at least 50% new oak, racked regularly, and after a light egg-white fining, it was bottled unfiltered.

葡萄酒

葡萄在木桶中发酵，频繁淋皮，苹果乳酸发酵也在大桶中进行。 葡萄酒在新桶至少占比50％的橡木桶中陈酿18个月，定期倒罐，经过轻微的蛋清澄清后，未经过滤即装瓶。

The reaction

Tasting the wine in November 2016, Decanter’s Jane Anson noted: ‘Tertiary aromas and flavours are coming to the fore, but confidently so. There is still a sense of freshness to the black fruits, and this wine has a way to go – the pleasures of a ripe Bordeaux vintage are still very much intact.’

反响

《品醇客》的Jane Anson在2016年11月品尝了这款酒，他指出：“毫无疑问，第三纪的芳香和风味已经面世。有一种黑色果的清新，这款葡萄酒还会演进，其成熟的波尔多年份酒的基因还很完整。

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